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The Most Wanted · Summer Trends

The Backless Dress

The most stylish way to turn heads this summer isn't a plunging front — it's a stunning exit.

The Backless Dress — a woman in a beige silk low open-back maxi dress on the coast at Porto Cervo, ESVRA Most Wanted
The Most Wanted  /  Curated by ESVRA

If 2025 belonged to the plunging neckline, 2026 has turned around entirely. The fashion crowd has quietly retired the low-cut front — the deep V, the exposed décolletage, the obvious reveal — in favour of something far more considered: the open back.

It is the season's defining shift, and you can see it everywhere. On the runways, at Saint Laurent, Alaïa, Khaite and Tom Ford, the drama migrated to the spine — draped satin dipping below the waist, delicate straps crossing bare skin, whole gowns built around the exit rather than the entrance. On the red carpet, the same story: the most photographed dresses of the summer reveal nothing from the front and everything from behind. Off-duty, the fashion set has traded the naked dress for the backless one — the grown-up, elegant way to show a little skin.

The appeal is the restraint. A covered front and a bare open back create contrast, and contrast is what reads as expensive. It is quietly sexy rather than loud, polished from every angle, and — crucially — it flatters posture, shoulders and movement in a way a neckline never could. It photographs beautifully. It walks away beautifully. It is, as the editors put it, the most stylish way to turn heads all season: not with a plunge, but with a stunning exit.

Below, the five ways to wear it now — the satin slip that started it, the fluid silk maxi for day into dinner, the draped evening gown for the summer wedding, the elevated open-back for every day, and the statement pieces worth the drama.

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The Backless Dress

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The Pieces
The Satin Slip

The liquid-satin slip with a low open back is the purest expression of the trend — a bias-cut column that skims the body and dips dramatically behind. It is the '90s-minimalist slip reborn with all its quiet sensuality intact, the kind of dress that looks expensive doing absolutely nothing. Khaite leads with its draped Kent maxi, Saint Laurent and Pucci bring the couture-level fluidity, while Anna October and Arcina Ori offer the slip at a gentler price. Nothing but skin, silk, and a stunning exit.

The Silk Maxi

For day that carries into dinner, the fluid silk maxi is the effortless answer — a little more ease than a slip, no less elegant, and perfect over sun-warmed skin. This is the beach-to-dinner dress the editors keep reaching for: throw it on, add fine gold and a flat sandal, and you look instantly expensive. Reformation and Oséree keep it easy, Mirror Palais brings the cult-girl polish, and Aya Muse and Adriana Degreas bring the resort drama.

The Draped Gown

When the occasion asks for more, the draped open-back gown delivers the drama — sculptural jersey and silk that fall in liquid folds, cut to reveal the back as the whole event. This is the summer-wedding, rooftop-cocktail, black-tie dress: refined at the front, breathtaking from behind. Mugler and Costarellos bring the architectural draping, Grace Ling and The Sei the modern sculpture, and Alejandra Alonso Rojas the romance.

The Elevated Open-Back

Not every open back needs to be a gown. The elevated everyday version — clean, minimal, quietly expensive — is the one you will actually live in: a ruched jersey, a fine knit, a georgette maxi that turns dinner or a long lunch into a moment. Rohe and Max Mara bring the quiet-luxury restraint, Alaïa the architectural cut, Helsa the ease, and Erdem the open-knit romance. The back does all the talking; you do nothing at all.

The Statement

And then, the ones worth the drama. When you want the backless dress to be the entire outfit — a print, a cutout, a name — these are the pieces that carry a whole evening on their own. Tom Ford brings the sex-and-glamour, Zimmermann the halterneck silk, Etro the paisley romance, and SIR the lace for the summer wedding you will be remembered at. Pure statement, worn without apology.

The Houses

The Designers in this Edit

Every piece in this edit, by the houses behind it. Explore them all.

Khaite Saint Laurent Pucci Nina Ricci Tom Ford Alaïa Zimmermann Etro Mugler Max Mara Rohe Erdem SIR Cult Gaia Mirror Palais Reformation Oséree Aya Muse Costarellos Alejandra Alonso Rojas

A covered front, a bare back, and all the allure — the most elegant way to turn heads all summer.— ESVRA